Viticulture in Alta Langa

One of the red varietals with the noblest pedigree, Pinot nero is one of the “internationals”: originally French, but now grown all over the world. Pinot nero is known to be the ancestor of other varietals, including Chardonnay; this appears to confirm its ancient origin and widespread prevalence.
From Burgundy and Champagne, Pinot nero (or Pinot Noir) has been circulated to various countries around the world, particularly in cool-temperate regions. In Italy, it is found mainly in Oltrepò Pavese, South Tyrol and eastern Veneto. It is also grown in Valle d’Aosta and other Alpine valleys, as well as in Tuscany and in many other places along the Apennine ridge. In recent years, it has made a comeback to the Alta Langa area, whilst it is rarely found in the rest of Piedmont, despite having been cultivated there since the late 18th century.

It is a difficult varietal, calling for particular expertise and care, from the initial planting plan to all the tending techniques. In soils that are either too fertile or over-fertilized, and where the vines are very vigorous, it may shed its flowers. It is quite sensitive to cryptogams, especially powdery mildew. Early budbreak brings with it a risk of exposure to late frosts. Even the age of the vines plays an important role. Pinot nero vines improve their fruit-to-leaf ratio with the passing of time, and, consequently, the consistent quality of the grapes too. Best practices in the vineyard can, however, shorten this time, and excellent results can also be obtained from younger vines, particularly if their grapes are meant for the production of base wine for spumante.

A fundamental criticality in the cultivation of Pinot nero is the decision of when to begin harvesting, as there is a very brief window within which the fruit’s components achieve the optimal balance. The grapes must be picked at the right time, and quickly, while being careful not to damage the bunches.

Chardonnay, originally from the North of France, is one of the most widely cultivated varietals worldwide, both to produce still wines – some of them intended for aging – and for making sparkling wines. Chardonnay is cultivated in distinctly different climates, yielding correspondingly different wines.

It seems that the name “Chardonnay” began to be used only in the twentieth century, taken from the village of the same name in southern Burgundy, between Mâcon and Chalon-sur-Saône. But the varietal is indisputably much older, though it went by other names: Beaunois (that is, from Beaune, in Burgundy, first cited in 1538), Morillon blanc, Pinot blanc (which is distinctly different, though there are similarities between the two varietals). Geneticists have established that the varietal is the result of a cross between Pinot and Gouais blanc.

It is a highly adaptable varietal and not particularly demanding, but it needs the right environment and the right conditions to yield truly fine wines: otherwise. At the coldest limits of its production areas, it is used mostly for the production of base wines to be assembled into sparkling wines, while in temperate climates it is usually made into dry white wine.

However, while it is true that in cooler climates, where the grapes do not contain high amounts of sugar at maturity, the decision to make base wines comes naturally, it is not the case that in more temperate climates the grapes cannot be profitably used to make sparkling wines.

Riper Chardonnay grapes, especially if blended with other varietals, enrich the final product in terms of body, structure and aromas typical of ripe fruit, as well as length and character.

Leaving aside Alta Langa, there are about one thousand hectares under Chardonnay in Piedmont. Even prior to the spumante-making venture of Alta Langa, Chardonnay was practically the only “international” varietal to enjoy a certain popularity among the region’s winemakers. However, in recent years this varietal has slowed down its ascent in the production of still wines, while the local varietals have gained ground. At the same time, Alta Langa has instead exalted its great potential as a spumante grape.

The varietal features an early budbreak, barely after Pinot nero, so it is also vulnerable to late spring cold snaps.

The position of the vineyards in the Upper Langhe, on fairly high hillsides, diminishes the risk of frost, both because budbreak tends to occur later and because the cold air, being denser, slides downhill during the last hours of the night, the most critical time, and reaches the valley floor, a physical phenomenon known as cold advection.

The vines are quite fertile (in terms of the number of bunches per bud), but the bunches are small and light; hence, production per vine is not abundant, normally ranging around 1.5 kg or less.

The bunch is tight and the skin is thin – both factors make it rather vulnerable to rot, but its early ripening and the breezy climate of the Upper Langhe reduce the risk, along with the know-how of the vineyard tenders, who expose the bunches to the air and light in the best way possible, so as to keep them healthy. It can be affected by cold and rainy weather during flowering.